clicker training
When using the clicker you need to remember some key points-
1. manage the dog and/or environment. What that means is, make the area so the dog cannot do anything you dont' want it to do, where an "ignore" won't work. Let's say, you want to teach the dog to go stand with two feet in a box. block the doors so the dog can't leave, corral the box and the dog inside and xpen, put a leash on the dog. Do whatever you can, to make it so you are less likely to correct the dog with a "no".
2. don't talk! let the CLICKER talk!
3. understand the concept. You are getting the dog to think for itself. IF YOU correct it, it will make the dog shut down because a correction essentially tells the dog to stop thinking. Just because YOU understand what you are correcting for, doesn't mean the dog gets that same connnection. NEVER correct a dog while you are clicker training.... let the DOG figure it out (which is why you need the management tools above, so it can't "fail") YOUR job is the click (take a snapshot of a behavior) the behaviors you want.
4. As the dog is learning, because you have the area managed, you can ignore/not reward the behaviors the dog gives you until you watch and see the behavior you want. You have to break a trick or a behavior down, however, into little parts so the puppy/dog gets it from the beginning. So for instance, come when called. You would use the clicker for EVERY aspect of connecting with you. You are out in the yard and puppy LOOKS at you, CLICK. (assuming the clicker has been properly "charged": ie paired w/treats the correct way, so dog knows what it means) starts to walk towards you CLICK. (you are NOT calling the dog at this point, because if you have a dog that won't come, it isnt' that it doesnt hear you, it is that it is avoiding your end result (going int the house for example) OR there are better rewards in the yard than YOU).. you just keep this up..evertime the dog connects with you, YOU click. (dog WILL come to you to get the treat) then YOU disconnect.. walk away.. just because YOU have the treats, doesnt' mean the dog gets them! Take a few steps away THEN call the dog to you, as he is already intrested in you, click as the puppy gets to you. you MUST click at ALL aspects of the come! Click when there is distance and the dog looks at you. Next time, wait til the dog is halfway TO you. Another time click when the dog is at your feet! it is YOUR job to give ALL of the information to the dog.
If you use this concept with a puppy, you will have a fantastic foundation. If you start a dog that was tradtionally trained (ie, corrections used and remember a "no" IS a correction) when the time comes for learning new behaviors, the dog will be stressed and not want to think. Those dogs are called "cross over" dogs and they dont' trust you, to be allowed to think on their own because you have a history with them, of telling them "no" so they don't WANT to think for you. You can work at it, but you better NOT correct the dog while you are teaching the clicker are reteaching the dog to think on its own!
I've been using a clicker for about 15years. I don't use the word "No" often, even w/out a clicker in sight. I manage my household so that my dogs don't get into trouble and I don't have to tell them "NO". If I say "no, believe me, they know to stop, because I use it so so rarely.
I trained a dog to go stand in a box with her two front feet, in 12 minutes. (labrador) she was raised, using a clicker. I clicked: sit, down, play the xylophone, come when called, walk through a ladder, walk by my side, walk backwards, walk sideways, bow,..all of that, was clicker trained, and much more. From the point of the box game on, I could put a box on the floor, even years later and she would go stand in it.
Another misconception is "if I use the clicker, I will always have to use it from that point on and I don't want to". No, you don't, but who cares and why wouldn't you want to? But no, you don't have to....if you create a good foundation with it, the puppy will assocate you with training and with the ablity to communicate in a way it understands. It is a simple concept, yet, so easy for the puppy to get. They trust you to guide them in a way of learning that makes sense to them. Later, once you have such a fantastic relationship and foundation for training, your dog will be able to learn in a fashion, to where you won't need it.
I hope this helps... go to www.dogwise.com and get some books on clicker training. Karen Pryer is the original clicker gure with the original concept (she used it in dolphin training and think about it, you can't correct or tell a dophin "No".. use that thought as you are training your dog). There are others and newer books, but hers is the original.
I think the biggest problem with people who dabble in clicker, rather than understand its true concept is, they pair it with corrections. IF you use the clicker as it was meant to be used, especially with a puppy, you will have a wonderful foundation to spread out and use some of your above mentioned techniques.
When using the clicker you need to remember some key points-
1. manage the dog and/or environment. What that means is, make the area so the dog cannot do anything you dont' want it to do, where an "ignore" won't work. Let's say, you want to teach the dog to go stand with two feet in a box. block the doors so the dog can't leave, corral the box and the dog inside and xpen, put a leash on the dog. Do whatever you can, to make it so you are less likely to correct the dog with a "no".
2. don't talk! let the CLICKER talk!
3. understand the concept. You are getting the dog to think for itself. IF YOU correct it, it will make the dog shut down because a correction essentially tells the dog to stop thinking. Just because YOU understand what you are correcting for, doesn't mean the dog gets that same connnection. NEVER correct a dog while you are clicker training.... let the DOG figure it out (which is why you need the management tools above, so it can't "fail") YOUR job is the click (take a snapshot of a behavior) the behaviors you want.
4. As the dog is learning, because you have the area managed, you can ignore/not reward the behaviors the dog gives you until you watch and see the behavior you want. You have to break a trick or a behavior down, however, into little parts so the puppy/dog gets it from the beginning. So for instance, come when called. You would use the clicker for EVERY aspect of connecting with you. You are out in the yard and puppy LOOKS at you, CLICK. (assuming the clicker has been properly "charged": ie paired w/treats the correct way, so dog knows what it means) starts to walk towards you CLICK. (you are NOT calling the dog at this point, because if you have a dog that won't come, it isnt' that it doesnt hear you, it is that it is avoiding your end result (going int the house for example) OR there are better rewards in the yard than YOU).. you just keep this up..evertime the dog connects with you, YOU click. (dog WILL come to you to get the treat) then YOU disconnect.. walk away.. just because YOU have the treats, doesnt' mean the dog gets them! Take a few steps away THEN call the dog to you, as he is already intrested in you, click as the puppy gets to you. you MUST click at ALL aspects of the come! Click when there is distance and the dog looks at you. Next time, wait til the dog is halfway TO you. Another time click when the dog is at your feet! it is YOUR job to give ALL of the information to the dog.
If you use this concept with a puppy, you will have a fantastic foundation. If you start a dog that was tradtionally trained (ie, corrections used and remember a "no" IS a correction) when the time comes for learning new behaviors, the dog will be stressed and not want to think. Those dogs are called "cross over" dogs and they dont' trust you, to be allowed to think on their own because you have a history with them, of telling them "no" so they don't WANT to think for you. You can work at it, but you better NOT correct the dog while you are teaching the clicker are reteaching the dog to think on its own!
I've been using a clicker for about 15years. I don't use the word "No" often, even w/out a clicker in sight. I manage my household so that my dogs don't get into trouble and I don't have to tell them "NO". If I say "no, believe me, they know to stop, because I use it so so rarely.
I trained a dog to go stand in a box with her two front feet, in 12 minutes. (labrador) she was raised, using a clicker. I clicked: sit, down, play the xylophone, come when called, walk through a ladder, walk by my side, walk backwards, walk sideways, bow,..all of that, was clicker trained, and much more. From the point of the box game on, I could put a box on the floor, even years later and she would go stand in it.
Another misconception is "if I use the clicker, I will always have to use it from that point on and I don't want to". No, you don't, but who cares and why wouldn't you want to?
But no, you don't have to....if you create a good foundation with it, the puppy will assocate you with training and with the ablity to communicate in a way it understands. It is a simple concept, yet, so easy for the puppy to get. They trust you to guide them in a way of learning that makes sense to them. Later, once you have such a fantastic relationship and foundation for training, your dog will be able to learn in a fashion, to where you won't need it. I hope this helps... go to www.dogwise.com and get some books on clicker training. Karen Pryer is the original clicker gure with the original concept (she used it in dolphin training and think about it, you can't correct or tell a dophin "No".. use that thought as you are training your dog). There are others and newer books, but hers is the original.
